Suit yourself: office workers now prefer smart casual
Is the office suit a thing of the past? JULENA DRUMI says the pandemic has redefined workwear
For generations of male workers the suit and tie has been the ubiquitous office uniform, often telling us something about the wearer – from cheap, ill-fitting high street options, worn with functional obligation, to the tailored Italian cuts that spell unbridled ambition and maybe a touch of ruthlessness.
Suits as statements became a thing in the 1980s when power dressing gave rise to new retailers such as Ted Baker and Tie Rack which populated Margaret Thatcher’s spirit of enterprise and turned the suit into a status symbol.
So what are we to make of a new survey suggesting the suit and tie is no longer the attire of choice for many office workers, including company bosses?
According to market analysts Kantar, sales of suits are down 7% year-on-year, ties are down 6% and blazers down 10%. Men’s suits have now fallen out of the official “basket of goods” used to track inflation, though the formal jacket and blazer are back in.
Is this just a trend, or is the office suit set for extinction?
Many brands best known for suits, such as Marks & Spencer, Ted Baker and Moss Bros plan to make more casual collections, but companies and employees can benefit from relaxed dress codes.
Attitudes to workwear are changing, but it is not just about fashion and what makes us feel comfortable. It also says something about our relationship to a company’s brand and adds new pressures to how we are supposed to dress for the office and those important business meetings.
Jeans, sweaters and t-shirts, once only familiar in the creative and tech industries, are now becoming the preferred workwear option across many sectors. But can lawyers and accountants also get away with meeting clients in chinos and a polo shirt?
The shift to casual wear can be traced back to the influence of Silicon Valley tech companies, whose dress down codes began to change our perception of what success looks like – think Mark Zuckerberg’s famous t-shirt and trousers combo.
Then came the pandemic and home working which led to millions of employees remaining in (very) casual mode throughout the working week, switching to shirt and tie only for those Zoom and Teams meetings where it was deemed to be more ‘presentable’.
Gina Hollands, commercial and PR director at creative marketing agency, PMW, says: “In the creative industries, it’s hard to imagine the office suit ever making a comeback as mandatory workwear.
“Only a few years ago, it was accepted in our industry that a suit should always be worn in some circumstances – normally for a client meeting or presentation. These days, there is a bigger question mark around what is appropriate – but there is also more flexibility, and greater opportunity for self-expression. We have found that this has a positive impact on how we are perceived as a creative agency, as we can express our creative talents through what we wear.”
Other sectors are adopting similar attitude. One 60-something lawyer posing for a photograph to accompany an article wasn’t sure whether he should be seen with or without a tie. In the end it came down to what he was talking about and who were the perceived readers.
Even black tie events are now seeing a break from the traditional black suit and bow tie, with some attendees opting for variations that include velvet or corduroy jackets with unmatched trousers and a coloured waistcoat and tie.
So what are the top tips for embracing a new workwear culture and still dressing for success?
Don’t neglect the ‘smart’ in smart casual
While our perception of ‘smart’ has changed in the last few years, this doesn’t mean that anything goes – especially when you’re meeting clients. While clean trainers and well-fitting jeans are now broadly accepted as stylish and professional options, dirty, creased, and faded clothes can give a negative impression of your brand. And, while you might wear them at home, you should absolutely never wear tracksuit bottoms in front of clients – at least not the ones who will see you from the waist down.
Use your clients as a guide
If you’ve got a client meeting or presentation coming up and you really want to impress, it’s often a good idea to emulate their company dress code. That way, you can be sure that what you’re wearing won’t be perceived as unprofessional. If they are a full suit company, you might not want to copy them entirely (particularly if they’re hiring you to bring some much-needed creativity to the table) but being a bit smarter than usual can go a long way.
You are what you wear
Employees are part of your company’s brand. The smartness level of their clothing can embody your company message and impacts on how others view the culture and values of your business.
Ms Hollands adds: “A tailored suit is no longer perceived as the sole outfit of success, which means you have the opportunity to define what works for your company.
“Clothes make a big impression; if you’re hired to be creative, going beyond the formal dress codes and allowing employees to display individual style in their clothing choices can affirm your creative abilities to your clients and help you portray what your business is all about right from the first meeting.”
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