A sculpted chair by Ron Arad and a Damien Hirst work on the back wall at Villa Ama (pic: supplied)
Ultra wealthy visitors to the French Riviera are being lured by private art collections, writes TERRY MURDEN
Those seeking the alluring combination of sunshine and glamour have been drawn to Saint-Tropez on the French Riviera ever since it featured in Brigitte Bardot’s 1956 cinematic debut And God Created Woman. The association with a succession of movie legends, models and sporting stars has enabled the coastal town with its sun-kissed beaches and charming harbour to remain a magnet for the ultra-wealthy.
They arrive from all continents, perhaps enjoying an aperitivo at Café Sénéquier, fashion icon Karl Lagerfeld’s favourite spot on the port for people-watching, or taking a slow walk through the town to gaze into the shop windows of Bulgari, Giorgio Armani, Dior, Rolex and other top brands.
The ultra high net worth visitors who make up a large chunk of their customers are the target clients for the owners of the luxury villas dotted among the winding lanes and clifftops, and along the stunning seafront, that are available for rent at prices only available to the mega-rich.
The villas are seen as a haven of tranquility for families willing to pay top dollar for a guarantee of privacy, relaxation and – for the top priced accommodation – every service they need from a team of live-in butlers, chefs, maids and drivers.
Nowadays they are also seeking something extra – an experiential break – and some of the villa owners have collected valuable and exclusive artworks by some of the world’s top names as an additional attraction for their guests.
Villa Ama in the Ramatuelle area is a seven-bedroom single storey home with a panoramic sea view that makes it one of the most sought after locations in the region. Just a five minute walk away is the glorious Pampelonne beach and Club 55 that was frequented by Bardot.
Villa Ama offers LA style accommodation (pic: Terry Murden / DB Media Services)
A week here will cost €155,000 in peak season and the added appeal is the private art collection of its owner the Monaco-based billionaire Asscher family who have curated a number of sculptures and paintings by the likes of “King of Kitsch” Jeff Koons and and the British artist Damien Hirst.
Embracing an international mix, other works are by Richard Serra (US) and Franz West (Austrian), the Japanese artist Takashi Murakami, upcoming US multi-genre artist Jonas Wood, Swiss-born Ugo Rondinone and the Israeli designer Ron Arad.
The artworks are spread around the rooms and the expansive grounds. They are intended to offer an “immersive, experiential stay, shaped by aesthetics and creativity”. They may not be to everyone’s taste, but some say they are worth more than the villa itself, and only those who stay here will get to see them.
Sculpture by Franz West (pic: Terry Murden / DB Media Services)
Ballerinas by Jeff Koons (pic: DB Media Services)
Karlina Nathan, a business strategist who works in the international art market, said a lot of wealthy private collectors were now building their own museums and the south of France had always been a playground for artists.
Saint-Tropez is renowned for its connection to the world’s top-tier collectors and is the location for the Pavilion of Art & Design (PAD) fair in July, a highlight in the global art calendar, bringing together stunning works of modern art, design, decorative arts, photography and jewellery from international galleries. For the past 20 years, collectors have also descended on Bel-Air Fine Art, located in a former cinema and showcasing contemporary works. Asscher is among its customers.
Speaking about his collection at Villa Ama, Nathan says: “Asscher is among the world’s top 200 collectors and for people to stay here and live with the art is incredible. They are not just decorative things slapped on a wall, you have great art all around you.”
Ama is considered an artwork in its own right, differing from the style of many of the more traditional wood-finished villas. It is dressed entirely in white, its interior surfaces made from acrylic resin mixed with natural minerals that provide the canvas for a minimalist, LA-style home. It is furnished with pale green and pink Italian sofas. An eating area is raised above a pool area that sits between the house and the tempting seafront.
There is a pink quartz dining table that seats nine diners similar to one used last year by President Macron to host a meeting with journalists. We were treated to a sumptuous dinner by Burgundy-born chef Aurelien Coutoudier who had previously worked at a Michelin-star restaurant in Lyon.
The bedrooms are sparsely furnished, save for a bed and 65-inch television. Our bed, with its duck feather pillows and quilt was, as expected, extremely comfortable and it looked out over the grounds and sea via a ceiling-to-floor window.
Villa Ama: evening light (pic: DB Media Services)
Villa Ama: sun setting behind Franz West’s sculpture (pic: DB Media Services)
In the quest for minimalism, it was puzzling to find there was no chair or sofa. After all, even billionaires need somewhere to sit, even just to put on their shoes. This was easily resolved, though it was a reminder that even in paradise there is room for improvement.
Our tour of Saint-Tropez and the surrounding area provided a rare glimpse behind the security gates and hedges of several luxury properties that otherwise remain hidden from public view. They offer a mix of fabulous sea views, heated pools, gyms and saunas, private yoga lessons, jet skis and all else that adds up to a life of extreme comfort.
Offering breath-taking views is Villa Alkmene, in the picturesque municipality of La Croix-Valmer. This newly-completed three-storey home is perched on a high rock face with its own path down to the hugely inviting Plage de Sylvabelle. It features a number of balconies, has a chauffeur service, and even a marble bath, and is yours for €170,000 per week.
Villa Alkmene is built into the cliffside (pic: supplied)
Rooftop gardeners at Villa Alkmene (pic: Terry Murden / DB Media Services)
View from top floor balcony at Villa Alkmene of Sylvabelle beach (pic: Terry Murden / DB Media Services)
For those with the fattest wallets, a week at Villa Octopussy in the exclusive Domains Les Parcs de Saint-Tropez, whose residents include LVMH tycoon Bernard Arnault, the Al-Fayed family and the steel magnate Lakshmi Mittal, will cost an eye-watering €430,000. With its waterfront view of the idyllic Baie des Canoubiers, its name and price are influenced by its association with the 1983 James Bond movie in which it appeared briefly as a stand-in for a home in the Caribbean. Such is the price of fame.
Previously owned by the Von Opel family, it was designed in 2015 by Paris-based gallerists Yves and Victor Gastou.
This nine-bedroom property, which was occupied and therefore frustratingly out of bounds for our tour, has been voted one of the top 15 villas in the world. Its 1.2 acre estate comes with its own private harbour, two pools, waterfalls and koi ponds, a private speed boat with captain, two jet skis, a sea kayak, and helipad.
Villa Octopussy (pic supplied)
Spiral staircase at Villa Octopussy (pic: supplied)
Villa Octopussy: view from the living quarters (pic: supplied)
Helicopters may be the preferred choice of transport for those who can afford to skip scheduled flights and a taxi journey from Nice, but they join the beach clubs in being subject to strict curfews on noise. Serenity is a valued commodity and that applies to the villas whose guests are carefully vetted.
“We avoid groups of friends. No celebrities bringing along DJs,” says Emilia Jedamska, owner of boutique rental agency St Tropez House, which has about 100 properties on its books. “The villas are for families who want a home environment. We get to know the guests and what they want from their stay, and most just want a peaceful time.”
Marcel Horande, business director of Domaine Louise in La Croix Valmer, said it was important to avoid disturbing the residents and that may mean turning away even some of the richest potential guests.
Villa Las Brisas with an uninterrupted view of the Med (pic: Terry Murden / DB Media Services)
Some time ago there was one international footballer who held an all-day party. “There were girls trying to climb over the walls and the neighbours were not impressed,” says Horande. “Such people are not welcome. We would rather not take their money than have that sort of disturbance.”
While guests do have the opportunity to party and enjoy every luxury available, many just want a simpler, more down to earth experience. As one villa manager said: “We could offer them a Ferrari for a week, but they have one at home that they use all year round, so they prefer to drive their kids around in a mini moke [a sort of modified golf buggy]. It’s fun for them and for the children.”
For those wanting discreet hospitality and fine cuisine, the go-to choice is one of the top beach clubs. We took in a visit to Nikki Beach Club, where Cambridge-born executive chef Alessandro Pizza, who just had to be of Italian descent, oversaw a long poolside lunch that included its famous chicken satay, truffle-stuffed pappardelle and scallop & lemon risotto.
Nikki Beach Club (pic: Terry Murden / DB Media Services)
One exception to the curfew is at Domaine La Rouillere, a winery established in 1905 which includes a stunning bastide, or manor house, for up to €45,000 a week, and smaller accommodation, which can host up to 350 guests for weddings and other events. Helicopters can land here four times a day and it can play music until 3am. It also made particular reference to meeting the needs of disabled visitors.
Polish-born Jedamska, now based in Monaco with her English husband Rumble Romagnoli, a former London-based corporate lawyer, and their three young children, set up St Tropez House in 2011. It grew revenue every year up to the pandemic in 2020, which caused an inevitable dip, but has been coming back in the years that followed.
With a background in international relations and a deep passion for languages, negotiations, interior design, and contemporary art, Jedamska carved out a niche by curating a portfolio of exceptional villas, many of which remain off-market and are shared only with a trusted circle of clients. Her understanding of UHNW lifestyles has made her a sought-after adviser to families and individuals around the world.
Emilia Jedamska and husband Rumble Romagnoli (pic: Terry Murden / DB Media Services)
She says the source and type of client is influenced by the economy and geo-politics. While new money from Russia and Europe had previously helped drive the market, Jedamska says the US is now the dominant source of guests, with the number of British-based visitors is dipping amid current concerns over tax, particularly the non-dom rules.
“They have been left thinking about issues other than holidays, such as where they are going to live,” she says.
Clients are also attracted to new destinations which have expanded the market in luxury accommodation.
“They are less willing to book for a whole season and are now more likely to move from one location to another,” she says. “It has meant explaining to owners that they will have to accept multiple rents over the key months.”
Although the nature of travel is changing and the choice of luxury destinations has increased, she says guests will always have Saint-Tropez on their list.
“Owners know they have everything here. It retains a special allure and glamour that many other places cannot offer.”
Terry and Julia Murden were guests of St Tropez House between 23-25 April
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