
Rio Recommends: Cairngorm Coffee and Stockbridge
Those of you working or living in Edinburgh’s West End and looking to stretch your legs for an hour might be tempted by a walk into Stockbridge along the Water of Leith. Weekend walkers also like the opportunity to stroll alongside the river and enjoy a browse around the Sunday market.
We parked in Melville Street and kicked off with an early lunch in Cairngorm Coffee. Pa had a bacon toastie in sourdough bread which he seemed to enjoy though he asked for a latte refill as the first was not too warm. I just sat under the tall tables and munched on a few biscuits. There were folk all around tapping into laptops and the handy charges and USB points suggest you’re welcome to stay a while. Some tablets are available for visitors.
From here we headed towards Dean Bridge and took a left turn down the steep Bell’s Brae into Dean Village, then a sharp right along Miller Row which passes the ford and runs along the water, emerging at Stockbridge Market. It was bustling as usual and the paella being cooked in huge pans smelled delightful. Pa put his camera on the ground to take my photo. Now he knows how the world looks from where I’m standing! Lots of boots!
The sound of unfamiliar languages made me think there were a lot of tourists eyeing up the crafts and local foods. However, they all seem to know the word Fluffy. It’s what they call me, especially the kids.
There’s a real mix of stallholders here. A fishmonger, a baker, a bunch of guys cooking chicken for a hungry-looking queue. That bloke who wears a cassock and sells mead. Another with lots of cheese. I like cheese, but Pa says it make me ill, so I don’t get to taste it.
We move on, crossing the bridge and turning into Dean Terrace. This is a nice neighbourhood. Very New Town. I notice that the blue recycling bin outside one door not only contains wine bottles, but also the wine glasses. Well, once used…

Up the hill and turn right into Ann Street, which is said to be one of Scotland’s most desirable addresses. The houses are certainly cute (like me) and it’s nice and quiet (also like me).
We turn left at the end of the street and onwards to Queensferry Road. Then it’s back over the bridge to where we started.
Cairngorm Coffee, Edinburgh West End (4/5)
Walk from Melville Street to Stockbridge and back (4/5)
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